Barszcz, barščiai or borscht – whatever you call it, does it need meat, or are simple vegetarian versions truer to the spirit of the dish? What is certain is that beetroot soup is seen by many as “the pride of old Polish borsch recetas” as Maria Lemnis, author of a work on traditional Polish cooking refers to it. This isn’t something I can lay my hands on, even after a tour of the many Polski Skleps in my neighbourhood, so thank goodness the process is, apparently “very simple”. All you have to do is peel and thinly slice your beetroot, then cover them with lukewarm water, pop a slice of rye bread on top and leave somewhere warm for the best part of a week.

After four days on top of the water heater, my bowl of beets has developed a satisfying amount of foam, and a reassuringly unpleasant smell. Fortunately there’s no sign of the mould Maria Ochorowicz breezily suggests I might need to scrape off before making her very simple take on barszcz. After scooping the soggy bread out, I season the soup with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar, and then ladle some of the malodorous water into a bowl. Maria reckons it’s “sour and tasty”. I’m surprised it’s not worse, but it would require some confidence in one’s ability to carry off peasant chic to serve this up to guests. The other option, of course, is to fake it.

Catherine Atkinson suggests in her survey of Polish and Russian cooking, From Borsch to Blinis, that a respectable alternative can be made by bringing a pan of grated beetroot, stock and lemon juice to the boil, allowing it to sit for half an hour, and then straining. The resulting liquid has a less complex flavour than the real thing, but does the job of adding tang to Catherine’s soup, and at considerably less cost to one’s airing cupboard. Confusing as this may be, what’s interesting is that, instead of the sour beetroot, she uses a mixture of sour cream and flour, added at the end of cooking time to thicken the soup. To be fair, Lesley does suggest using the juice from pickled beetroot to improve the colour of the soup, which has the virtue of imparting a certain piquancy, but goes against Maria Lemnis’ stern prohibition on the use of vinegar in borscht. Lesley Chamberlain’s makes use of the water one cooks the soup’s beans in, and Bridget Jones suggests that on Christmas Eve, fish stock would be used instead, to honour the customary fast. The Old Warsaw Cookbook, however, mentions a Lenten borscht based on a homemade vegetable stock, flavoured with dried mushrooms.